The Tucson Festival of Books has come a long way over the past decade. In a state where cultural institutions struggle, literature-loving is low, and in a city that punches way below its weight, one of the nation's premier book events has blossomed. I was honored to be there again earlier this month, on author panels and signing my books.
This is a bad look for Phoenix, as the hep cats say now. The state's population, economic, and governmental center of gravity cedes such a prize to a city it otherwise rarely even thinks about? Sadly for Phoenix, yes. Several years of festivals at the Carnegie Library never took off. Efforts to go big went nowhere.
In the Old Pueblo, the Arizona Daily Star, then led by my friend John Humenik, developer Bill Viner, and Frank Farias of the University of Arizona went big right from the start. The festival is held on the central mall of the UA, whose support has been essential. But so has that of the newspaper — something never forthcoming in Phoenix — and a growing array of corporate and individual donors, hotels and small businesses. The Tucson Medical Center is a major sponsor.
Admission is free. Helped by an army of volunteers, everything runs smoothly. The Festival treats its many authors very well. The CSPAN bus, always the sign of a prestigious book event, was there both days. What a gem for Tucson. And a treat for Phoenicians, if one can stand the Ugliest Drive in America (and mourn the passenger trains we once enjoyed between the two cities and beyond).
If you took about four or so square miles of central Tucson, most of the magic of this city remains. Indeed, it has been enhanced (or reclaimed). The old streetcar has been modernized and extended — a relaxing way to travel between campus and downtown along a revived Fourth Avenue (the downside: No dedicated lanes for transit).
Downtown is better than I've seen it in decades, with much more real-city density and architectural variety than in Phoenix. Amtrak serves a beautifully refurbished Southern Pacific depot. The old close-in neighborhoods retain their charm, all presided over by the timeless Catalinas.
Go far beyond this sweet spot and the human-created environment is a typical Arizona mess, maybe worse than many parts of Phoenix. The land-use practices of Pima County make metropolitan Phoenix look like Portland by comparison. Cross the Rillito River and a sign says you're entering the "Town" of Marana. This once-sweet little farm village now sprawls across an astonishing 122 square miles, bigger than Seattle or Cincinnati. Let the blading of the Sonoran Desert continue!
• Microsoft. Much hype has surrounded a "Microsoft Technology Center" approved by the Goodyear City Council on 279 acres south of Interstate 10 near the Phoenix Goodyear Airport. Entirely dependent on automobiles, of course. It's the typical con, meant to imply that the company will fill the proposed five buildings with high-paid software engineer jobs. Don't be fooled.
Microsoft's campus in suburban Seattle, which employs more than 50,000, doesn't require 1 million gallons of water a day for each building. That's the requirement for data centers, buildings that house servers and provide few jobs.
We have no idea of the incentives provided to Microsoft beyond Goodyear fast-tracking permitting. But typically states hand out huge corporate welfare tax breaks for little in return on data centers. The Arizona Republic has filed a public records request. But I am proof that one doesn't question the local booster culture and real-estate hustles and survive professionally.
Only a few metros are at the headwaters of the tech economy: San Jose, San Francisco, Seattle, Austin, Raleigh-Durham, and Boston. Secondary metros gaining power include San Diego. Getting Phoenix there will require more than cheap land, championship golf, and sunshine.
• Quick central Phoenix observations. I continue to be amazed at the infill along the Central Corridor. After decades of civic missteps and vandalism, it's finally happening. More important: It's not a one-off. It has momentum.
Most of the new buildings lack character and one can imagine how great it would have been to preserve so much that was demolished for reuse in this rebirth. A huge music festival was happening in the deck park while I was there. More of the economy needs to shift to central Phoenix, instead of the suburbs. And the desperate need for shade trees continues — it's an investment far better than wasting water on more sprawl — or data centers.
I watched some of the Tucson Festival of Books on CSPAN. It is an impressive event - something Phoenix indeed should rightfully envy. Los Angeles has the LA Times Festival of Books, the largest such event in the country. It's coming up in April. Many would think that a region known for movies and TV wouldn't be the site of the biggest book festival in the land, but it is. Festivals like that take energy and leadership. I guess the "Arizona" Republic feels the Tucson Festival takes care of it for "Arizona," so needs to devote neither energy nor leadership to staging something significant in metro Phoenix, the existence of which it scarcely acknowledges. (BTW, Tucson has a far more palpable sense of itself as a distinct place than does metro Phoenix. Phoenix is the largest metro in the country without a newspaper named after itself.) What sort of community focus can you expect of the "Arizona" Republic? They imply we all live in a place called "Arizona." We don't. Arizona comprises 118,000 square miles. If we think we do live in a community called "Arizona," we should be happy the book festival is only 120 miles away!
Posted by: Phil Motta | March 07, 2019 at 01:57 PM
I did the LAT Festival of Books three times and it was a blast. Alas, the wonderful LA Mystery Bookshop closed, as did my regular stops in Pasadena and Thousand Oaks.
Posted by: Rogue Columnist | March 07, 2019 at 04:00 PM
As long as our primary form of tax revenue for municipalities is the sales tax, there will also be knock-down-drag-out competition between central Phoenix and the burbs. Surprise, Scottsdale, Tempe, Glendale, Peoria, Buckeye, Avondale, Chandler, Gilbert and Mesa all want to be the next Phoenix. Its sad.....and a waste!
Posted by: SD Mittelsteadt | March 07, 2019 at 04:21 PM
You've convinced me, Jon. Next year I will head to Tucson for book festival. I'd actually like to live in Tucson, but there are some issues getting around that place. And its not easy finding a decent job. But I do like it and visit when I can.
Posted by: SD Mittelsteadt | March 07, 2019 at 04:23 PM
SD, U could buy Jim Harrison's place in Patagonia and work from there.
Posted by: Cal Lash | March 07, 2019 at 07:00 PM
Requiem for Sonora
by Richard Shelton
1
a small child of a wind
stumbles toward me down the arroyo
lost and carrying no light
tearing its sleeves
on thorns of the palo verde
talking to itself
and to the dark shapes it touches
searching for what it has not lost
and will never find
searching
and lonelier
than even I can imagine
the moon sleeps
with her head on the buttocks of a young hill
and you lie before me
under moonlight as if under water
oh my desert
the coolness of your face
2
men are coming inland to you
soon they will make you the last resort
for tourists who have
nowhere else to go
what will become of the coyote
with eyes of topaz
moving silently to his undoing
the ocotillo
flagellant of the wind
the deer climbing with dignity
further into the mountains
the huge delicate saguaro
what will become of those who cannot learn
the terrible knowledge of cities
3
years ago I came to you as a stranger
and have never been worthy
to be called your lover or to speak your name
loveliest
most silent sanctuary
more fragile than forests
more beautiful than water
I am older and uglier
and full of the knowledge
that I do not belong to beauty
and beauty does not belong to me
I have learned to accept
whatever men choose to give me
or whatever they choose to withhold
but oh my desert
yours is the only death I cannot bear
Posted by: soleri | March 08, 2019 at 10:13 AM
Richard Shelton is Tucson's treasure; thanks for posting this poem.
Posted by: terry dudas | March 08, 2019 at 12:35 PM
The latest Most Literate Cities Survey (2016) has Tucson at 53rd place in literacy (out of 82), Chandler at 63rd, Phoenix at 65th, and Mesa at 73rd. The cities you would expect to top the list... top the list:
http://web.ccsu.edu/americasmostliteratecities/2016/overallranking.asp
Check "Methodology" in the panel at left to see what the creators of the survey used as proxies for literacy.
Posted by: Joe Schallan | March 08, 2019 at 04:28 PM
Cal Lash,
I can remember choosing Patagonia as the ideal place to live in AZ but fate brought me to PHX and Wickenburg was the next best choice. The town has since sold itself to sprawl despite voter opinion. Any ideas where to go now?
Posted by: John Cote | March 08, 2019 at 09:24 PM
Uruguay
Posted by: Cal Lash | March 08, 2019 at 11:58 PM
Actually, i like Why, AZ. Its not a pretty little burg but its quiet.
Close to Organ Pipe (think Ed Abbey) and
not far from the Ocean.
Posted by: Cal Lash | March 09, 2019 at 12:02 AM
I was raised in Tucson and live in Phoenix. There are stark differences between Tucson and Phoenix. Here’s a few differences that stand out for me:
Due to its size, Tucson is civically centered, aware of its history and cultural influences, and comfortable in its own identity. It’s not trying to be a Phoenix. Rodeo Day and the parade is still a day off for schools. Even the smaller minority groups maintain and celebrate their cultural roots in the community. The Chinese Cultural Center was built on donated land and built with strong community support and donations. The center holds language classes, has a display that honors Chinese war veterans, holds community events, and provides a place for senior citizens to congregate. Phoenix’s Chinese cultural center was a for-profit retail venture that ultimately folded.
UA is so much more than an economic engine in Tucson. It brings culture that engages the community. Aside from performing arts, which ASU offers as well. UA’s always been the only game in town for sports enthusiasts, so the supports bleeds deep into the community. Tailgating on the mall is an event in itself. UA student-led Spring Fling has been going strong since the 1970’s. ASU can boast its it’s contribution to the community through its growing size (jobs/economic boost) and for-profit ventures.
Even community events like the Fourth Avenue Street Fair feel community-centric with more local representation. Similar events in Tempe & Scottsdale seem to support artists who travel the circuit around the country.
Tucson can boast having a world-class Arizona Sonoran Desert Museum and it can also get gussied up and host signature national events like El Tour de Tucson, the book fair, and the gem show.
So why do I live in Phoenix? More job opportunities, more entertainment and restaurants, more, more - so I guess I’m a bit of a nostalgic hypocrite.
Posted by: Alexis | March 30, 2019 at 08:34 AM