I came into the new wing of terminal four at Sky Harbor. It's fancy and the terminal is still being improved. Still, it's difficult not to notice how American airports resemble malls, as if this is the defining and highest aspiration possible for an empire facing decadence and many breaking points. And on the outside, Sky Harbor is brutally ugly. I think of Cincinnati Union Terminal, one of America's most glorious art deco treasures, built to inspire, built for the ages. It's not only in Phoenix. We can't do these things any more.
It was a late flight, so it took a mad scramble to get the last light-rail train headed west at 11:25 (this is the sixth largest city in America?). Once on board, everything is delightful (we built it, you bastards). I am struck again by all the empty and underutilized land along much of the route. Oh, for some urbanism in fillers with capital, as is happening at a frenzied pace in Seattle. Still, it's wonderful to see the convention center, CityScape and downtown ASU campus. Then enfolded in the comforting spaces of my old haunts in Midtown. Central between McDowell and Osborn is the only really filled-in part of the core, with the ghastly exception of the northwest corner of Central and McDowell. Up to Thomas, it is surrounded by the real, walkable neighborhoods of the historic districts.
Here, it's impossible for me not to grow romantic, listening to the train whistles that I heard from my earliest childhood, feeling the cool wind sweep down from the High Country. And Phoenix is never sweeter than on a rainy night. More to come.
I thought I felt a ripple in the force.
The Master is here.
Posted by: azrebel | December 13, 2011 at 04:57 PM
Funny you mention Sky Harbor design.
Today at about 4:30 PM I picked up my grandson at terminal four after his flight from Austin, a real city. As we drove out he commented on the design as not to cool. But whats he know a 19 year old with a BA in Computer Science. And as usual the Arrival and Departure signs were almost completely out of sync. But there was a nice view from the 9th floor parking garage area.
Good cloud and sunlight mixture to the south. AZ Rebel that ripple you felt was just a big groan from the east valley when they learned Jon had landed back in Phoenix
Posted by: cal Lash | December 13, 2011 at 06:46 PM
I flew into Austin-Bergstrom "International" Airport once...I thought to myself: "Where's the rest of it?" It is smaller than one concourse of Terminal 4 at Sky Harbor and thus, extremely unimpressive. Austin is OK and the best part is the cool, old downtown area with the 2 cool streets. Other than that it is just a tiny Dallas, Houston, or San Antonio.
Welcome home Jon; I'm going to be making my way up to Flagstaff to hit the slopes and Aspen/San Francisco St...
Posted by: phxSUNSfan | December 13, 2011 at 07:03 PM
Google walkable cities including Austin phxsunfan
Posted by: cal lash | December 13, 2011 at 07:34 PM
Now in Portland (since 2003) after 18 years on and off in Phoenix and Tucson (for college). I still grow nostalgic this time of year. We used to live in Ashland Place, across Central from Willo. Wonderfully narrow streets, vintage street lamps, leaves falling from the trees that made it through yet another summer. Luminarias in Willo were a special treat, as was sitting out back by the chimenea on a chilly December night. The only thing that could break the spell was to drive south on 3rd Street, then head east on I-10, into the Phoenix Metro's "99%"..........
Posted by: Sycamore | December 13, 2011 at 07:56 PM
I've been there, Austin isn't very walkable once you leave Congress/6th Street and some of the surrounding downtown areas. After that it is a sprawling, humid Texan city...
Posted by: phxSUNSfan | December 13, 2011 at 08:00 PM
Your entitled to that opinion. but i disagree!
Posted by: cal lash | December 13, 2011 at 08:07 PM
By the way what city have u not been too?
Posted by: cal lash | December 13, 2011 at 08:08 PM
As for large cities, Austin ranks 31st most walkable and Phoenix...33rd. They receive similar overall walk scores.
http://www.walkscore.com/rankings/
Posted by: phxSUNSfan | December 13, 2011 at 08:09 PM
My favorite city is anything less than 3 people.
Posted by: cal lash | December 13, 2011 at 08:19 PM
Haven't been to some cities furthest from military bases...I've been to most of the largest however. All the Texas cities due to Ft. Hood, Lackland, Ft. Bliss, etc.
So that excludes Omaha, Des Moines, Tampa, Annapolis, Birmingham, and most of the mid-sized cities.
Posted by: phxSUNSfan | December 13, 2011 at 08:21 PM
Cal, that's why I'm surprised you like walking around Austin. 6th St is usually packed!
Posted by: phxSUNSfan | December 13, 2011 at 08:30 PM
Well, hell, if we're blogging about Austin, about 18 years ago I fell in love in a topless joint north of Austin. No matter how hard I tried, I couldn't get her to move back to Arizona. What a body. Talk about walkability.
Posted by: azrebel | December 13, 2011 at 08:40 PM
Not after 2 AM
Posted by: cal Lash | December 13, 2011 at 09:22 PM
Downtown is almost there. CityScape and the new "Legends" entertainment lighting make for a place that I can show visitors "Downtown PHX".
Before I'd focus on Mill Ave or drive them from The Biltmore Area thru South Scottsdale.
Every big city must have an ice skating rink downtown during Christmas. :) Done!
Posted by: LeftCoastDood | December 13, 2011 at 10:31 PM
As far as Sky Harbor goes, I love the Phoenix bird floor mural - Terminal 2, I believe. It welcomes me from Seattle rain to Phoenix sunshine. Hope all you have a great holiday! I miss the sunshine,Clarendon pool, and Charlies!
Posted by: pat L | December 13, 2011 at 10:36 PM
Ice skating in Phoenix is like snow skiing in Dubai. I liked Terminal one.
A one story affair and you could bring lunch and sit on the roof.
For you High rollers the Portland has Kung Fu Girl Riesling back in stock. And JD And Alberto are there.
Posted by: cal Lash | December 13, 2011 at 11:15 PM
Cal and I are plotting at Park Central Starbucks
Posted by: Rogue Columnist | December 15, 2011 at 01:53 PM
The only thing that could break the spell was to drive south on 3rd Street, then head east on I-10, into the Phoenix Metro's "99%"..........
Posted by: adammarley | May 06, 2012 at 11:10 AM